The theme we have chosen is the fashion trends of the 90s and, more specifically, the trend of layering/skirts on trousers. This technique is based on the principle of superimposing pieces in a visible way, playing with the contrast of materials, colours and volumes of our clothes. As with any fashion trend, we cannot point to one person as the originator. But we can say that certain brands and events popularised it. In the case of layering, we can cite outdoor brands such as Patagonia, which in 1973 understood the usefulness of wearing several thin layers of clothing rather than imposing pieces for comfortable outfits adapted to extreme environments. In addition, with the technological boom that accompanied the two world wars, scientific knowledge gradually found its way into the wardrobes of athletes and soldiers.
For my personal research, I wanted to focus on the origins of layering. Is it culturally important in certain countries? Or is it just for aesthetic reasons? Is it essential in certain situations? Is there a hidden history?
The principle of layering appears in several traditional cultures. It is easy to imagine that there was a practical reason for this, since iti s mainly found in mountainous or northern areas: the Andes in South America, Uzbekistan in Central Asia, the Balkans in Eastern Europe. The aim is obviously to provide effective protection against the cold. But there seems to be another, more important reason: display. Indeed, it seems that layers of clothing are increasingly worn for major celebrations, especially weddings. By wearing many layers of clothing, the bride is demonstrating her wealth.
Traditional clother of Vietnam have always been diverse depending on the area and occasion, so wedding clothes varied in style and trend throughout history. It was only after 1744 and during Nguyễn dynasty that men and women began to wear very garnment for their wedding ceremonies.. The fashion trend of the Nguyễn dynasty has remained popular and is still used today by Vietnamese.
For brides, the outfit includes an extravagant (often transparent) outer cloak on top of the dress
Both brides and grooms, wear a headpiece called a khăn vấn; the turban can range from simple and small to elaborate and big. Women would wear the female variation of the headpiece while men would wear the male one, which is smaller and simpler than the bride's. Both headpieces can be matching or contrasting the color of their gowns.
By tradition from Nguyễn dynasty, the gowns of the bride had many layers, including pink, blue or green, and the outermost layer was black. Huế brides wore red layer inside a dark blue thin layer, the 2 colors mixed became purple color. Nowadays, the wedding outfits can vary in colors. Reds and pinks remain a popular choice for brides while grooms go with blues or blacks.
So, in this case, layering was also designed to create new colors, as we already know, by mixing them, we can obtain a new color variation.
They can also have their traditional outfits match in color or design instead. In terms of design, the clothes are usually embroidered or beaded with imperial symbols such as a phoenix or dragon; nature imagery can also be seen.
Wedding of professor Nguyễn Văn Huyên and Ms. Vi Kim Ngọc in 1936. . The bride was wearing áo nhật bình, the groom was wearing áo ngũ thân and they used khăn vấn on their head.
The most significant piece is the Ao dai. The bride and groom's strong piece is the Áo dài as well. AO dài is a modernized Vietnamese national garment consisting of a long split tunic worn over silk trousers. It can serve as formalwear for both men and women.
Áo translates as shirtand dài means “long”. The term can also be used to describe any clothing attire that consists of a long tunic, such as nhật bình. This outfit was derived from the áo ngũ thân, a five-piece dress commonly worn in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
The five pieces of fabric represent the five Confucian virtues: humanity, righteousness, propriety, wisdom, and trust.
The earliest form of the Ao dai was a four-panel dress with a short black skirt and waistband. Two panels were sewn together at the back and two panels were left open with a belt in the front. There were also a “baby flap” hidden underneath the main front flap.
During that time, Vietnam was separated into two parts: the Northern was governed by Lord Trinh and the Southern by Lord Nguyen.
Aiming to identity his empire and show the spirit of independence, Lord Nguyen Phuc Khoat had decreed to modify the dress: wearing gown with buttons, replacing skirt to pants to distinguish Southern people with Northern people.
At that time, people were forced to wear traditional Chinese clothing. Then, Vietnamese designers began to change the design of the traditional Chinese clothing. Thus, the Ao ngu than was created to show separated and independent culture of Vietnam for both women and men in the high class.
In the late 18th century, France claimed Vietnam as colony. Therefore, local people began wearing clothes influenced by Western design.
In fact, some Vietnamese designers started to against these clothes by modernizing the ao ngu than. They used some of the French or Western design to modernize ao ngu than. However, the new one still hold Vietnamese culture and became the modern form of Vietnamese traditional clothing. It was called “Ao dai” from then on.
It is noticeable that it's mainly women who wear these layered garments, and they take care to make them all visible. The upper garments are cut so that the lower ones can be seen. The garments are made of fabrics of different thicknesses and colours and are richly decorated with embroidery. Multiple layers are used for all parts: underwear, trousers, skirts, capes and headdresses. The number of layers often prevents full movement and causes the wearer to stand still.
Let us return to the origins of layering as practised in the West. In fact, the Second World War made the military services realise that the outfit would be as important as the weapons... The "onion technique" was born.
In 1943, the Quarter Corps Section, the department responsible for supplying military uniforms, introduced a new uniform called the M-43. This set consisted of a sweater, a woollen undershirt and a long-sleeved flannel shirt.
The US Army M-43 uniform was introduced to replace a number of other specialist uniforms and some inadequate garments such as the M1941 Field Jacket. It was used with modifications for the duration of the Second World War and into the Korean War, before being replaced by the OG-107 uniform from 1952.
The evolution of this military outfit then aimed to provide soldiers with an easily modular wardrobe, depending on the climatic peculiarities of the various theatres of the United States Army. For the record, not all soldiers were enthusiastic about the new outfit. To convince them, the US Army had to set up 90-hour training courses and distribute a special guide on how to use it.
The onion technique is still used by the military today. The French army reveals the “very cold” equipment of its soldiers.
How are French soldiers equipped to face the extreme cold in Eastern Europe?
In France, temperatures are falling, but in Eastern Europe they are plummeting. In these regions, the temperature can drop to -30 or -40°C, depending on the wind and the humidity of the rain and snow.
To protect them from these climatic conditions, technical equipment has been developed by the Commissariat of the Armed Forces.
Based on the onion principle used during the Second World War, this garment has several layers that allow air to pass through to wick away perspiration and keep the body warm. Each soldier adapts it according to the area of operation, the activity (static or dynamic), but also according to his own resistance to cold.
Lieutenant-Colonel Pierre-Antoine of the Army General Staff says:
“Cold is a figment of the mind, as they say in the military. The feeling of cold differs from one person to another, which is why the multi-layer method is important to adapt to each person.
There is regulatory and technical underwear, a tactical combat jacket, another thermal jacket, a weatherproof jacket and trousers set, and finally a parka. There is also a hat, silver thread socks, high mountain gloves, class 4 snow goggles to protect against glare, a ‘softshell’ jacket, mountain boots with overboots and even an effective down to -35 degrees” (BFM article, France, 17.12.2022).
The layering technique could not be better illustrated. However, we can see that even if the technique remains the same as that of the Second World War, there has been a clear improvement in the choice of clothing and materials used. Technology evolves.
I think it's interesting to be aware of what's around us. Why do we decide to bring back a trend, what is its history? Was it born to be fashionable or was it born for a more practical reason?
In this case, I learned that layering is not just a trend that appeared in the 90s. There is a whole history behind it that goes beyond the world of fashion. Who goes into the trenches for a question of survival. This is a technique that has certainly saved lives, far beyond dressing people.
