Local bast fibers in Estonia: flax, hemp and nettle

Fiber Processing Experiments by Mari-Triin Kirs, Pallas University of Applied Sciences

This exposition presents an overview of local bast fiber processing experiments conducted as part of the research, development and creative project (TAL nr 200923) by Mari-Triin Kirs at Pallas University of Applied Sciences. The project began in 2023, with practical experiments carried out between 2020 and 2024 near Tartu, Estonia. 

Nettle

My exploration of local bast fibers in Estonia began with the stinging nettle (Urtica dioica), a native plant in Europe.

Because nettles grow abundantly and require no cultivation, they were an accessible starting point for learning fiber processing techniques. However, extracting fiber from nettles is labor-intensive and time-consuming, which led me to try different approaches. Some methods proved more effective than others. A detailed description of these experiments can be found on the next page.

Flax

Following my work with nettles, I began searching for local flax growers. While flax is no longer cultivated industrially for fiber in Estonia, some heritage institutions, including the Estonian Agricultural Museum, continue to grow small plots for educational purposes.

In 2022, I partnered with the Estonian Agricultural Museum to sow and grow my first flax field. Since then, together with textile students from Pallas University of Applied Sciences, we have grown, harvested, and processed flax there annually. More information is available on the page "Flax Experiments."

Hemp

Hemp is another bast fiber plant historically cultivated in Estonia, primarily for rope and coarse textile production. Today, it is mostly grown for its seeds, used in hemp oil production. Although these hemp varieties also contain fiber, the lack of local fiber-processing infrastructure presents a challenge for textile use.

I have been experimenting with the variety Tiborszallasi, which can grow over three meters tall—making it suitable for fiber extraction. However, due to the thickness and height of the plants, I had to adapt my processing methods significantly. Photos and videos from these experiments can be found on the final page, "Hemp Experiments."