Chrisrian Dior's first collection was launched in 1947. French designer introduced the "new look" into european fashion. After the second World War fashion was dominated by the uniformity and restriction. Dior revolutionised conventional garments embracing the femininity and introducing completely new silhouettes.
The collection embodied the idea of Haute Couture - the high sewing, a method characterised by high quality hand crafted garments, often made in smaller quantities or for individual clients. An example of this can be the "Bar" Jacket, one of the most iconic garments of the collection. The sculpted top and voluminous bottom were the proof of the highest quality tailoring, attention to details, remarkable craftsmanship and the use of luxury fabrics. The concept of Haure Couture stood in the contrast to Pret-a-Porter (ready to wear). This idea focused on accesible clothing, made in big quantities with standardised sizes. Unlike Haute Couture, Pret-a-Porter uses faster and cheaper construction techniques as well as industrialised production methods.
The tranformative value of Dior's collection was marked not only by the unique silhouettes but also due to the use of various luxurious fabrics. In order to create voluminous shapes and the hourglass figures, the designer used lightweight materials such as taffeta and percal. Dior used different supporting materials for his dresses such as crinoline or horse hair, providing necessary lift and fulness. To enhance the elegance and sense of luxury and richness, garments also consisted of materials such as fine wool and silk.
Characteristical and unique shapes of the garments required various construction techniques. Cinched waits were achived due to very precise tailoring as well as corsetry. Voluminous, round shapes could be created thanks to the use of various paddings and previously mentioned supproting materials like crinoline. The collection was a reflection of high standards of Haute Couture, Dior put special effort into the highest quality of craftmanship. The garments consisted of multiple hand sewn hems, precise seam work and detailed embroidery.
The collection played a crucial role in redefining womens' identity in the new reality, the post war era. After years of repression and responsibilites layed upon them, they were reintroduced to garments that celebraited their femininity and allowed them to express theirselves freely.
"New Look" was not only revolutionaly due to redifing the idendities; It was a much broader reflection of societal changes after The Second World War. After years of poverty and devastation, there was a high yearning for beauty as well as luxury which alligned with Dior's vision. The use of luxurious materials as well as using large ammount of fabrics for the dresses showed a sign of economic recovery as well as optimism for the future. Dior quickly gained global recognition and helped to establish Paris as the global epicentre of fashion.
Diors "New Look" collection was a statement and a phenomenon showcasing the world in a rapid transition. Through its emphasis on Haute couture, bold designs and pushing the societal changes, the collection became relevant to this day and remains a source of inspiration for many designers.
Bibliography
https://cmmodels.com/haute-couture-pret-a-porter-running-styles-of-a-fashion-show/
https://www.vogue.com/article/everything-you-need-to-know-about-christian-diors-new-look-silhouette
https://www.chhs.colostate.edu/avenir/exhibitions/past-exhibitions/diors-new-look/
https://medium.com/%40kalyanii8927/fashion-history-the-new-look-by-dior-e664581e82eb
https://vintagedancer.com/1950s/1950s-fashion-women-get-look/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dior
