In the late 70s and the beginning of the 80s, a dramatic, glamour, questioning and
a colorful-looking youth subculture emerged in London: New Romantics. It was a
time where people could be wild and outrageous in expressing their identity in
fashion. It was mainly inspired by the Punk movement, the Victorian and Rococo
eras, and also imagined futuristic silhouettes. It emerged because of new
music genres and artists.
While the Punk movement was more about rebellion, New Romantics aimed to show
a more colorful and extravagant approach to fashion. In the garments, the emphasis
was on voluminous, puffy and flowy shapes, stripes in the patterns and of course
colors. Textile wise, the feeling was and looked softer than before, such as satin,
corduroy, lace and shiny/metallic materials, the intention was to look more aesthetic
and pleasing to the eye. The looks were much more androgynous, focusing on
overall expressivity more than a specific gender related silhouette. We can also
notice that through makeup: crazy haircuts, bold and disheveled eyeliner to complete
their looks.
New Romantics were widely inspired by theater, movies and the music scene. We
can associate this time period, this movement with artists such as David Bowie or
Duran Duran, Spandau Ballet where we can clearly see all of the physical
characteristics listed above. It was also popularized in nightclubs like The Blitz.
This era showcased performance rather than rebellion. it allowed people to see
representation and flourish in a community.
In the Fashion industry, many designers hopped on the movement, like Stephen
Jones or John Galliano. The silhouettes were androgynous, a bit dandy, playing
even more with this idea of being on stage.
Nowadays, New Romantics is having a sort of comeback, as it aims to convey
freedom through dressing, mixing up influences from the past and hypothetical
imaginary looks from the future. It was a way to get out of gender norms and just
enjoy fashion and textile as more than a garment.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
McEllin, Sine. “New Romantic Fashion.” Ian Drummond Vintage, 30 Oct. 2023, iandrummondvintage.com/en-fr/blogs/fashion-history/new-romantic-fashion?srsltid=AfmBOooFj2dcqb_jSUwchT323t1hHDIiR8-9BjzGBgJ1cj1kXIOJlLKN.
Zajíčková, Barbora, et al. “The Subculture of New Romantics as a Reaction to the Subculture of Punk.” UNIVERZITA PALACKÉHO V OLOMOUCI, directed by Jiří Flajšar Ph.D., UNIVERZITA PALACKÉHO V OLOMOUCI, 26 Apr. 2021, theses.cz/id/0gsxsd/Bakalarska_prace.pdf.
Numéro. “Qui Est Stephen Jones, Chapelier Des Stars Et Des Grandes Maisons ?” Numéro, 25 Sept. 2024, numero.com/mode/stephen-jones-chapelier-stars.
---. “New Romantic Fashion.” Ian Drummond Vintage, 30 Oct. 2023, iandrummondvintage.com/en-fr/blogs/fashion-history/new-romantic-fashion?srsltid=AfmBOooFj2dcqb_jSUwchT323t1hHDIiR8-9BjzGBgJ1cj1kXIOJlLKN.
Nickybeckett. “Stephen Jones : « Chapeaux D’Artiste » Iconic Hats and Awesome Playlist – Paris, Palais Galliera.” Rock Art Fashion, 19 Mar. 2025, rockartfashion.net/2025/03/12/stephen-jones-chapeaux-dartiste-iconic-hats-and-awesome-playlist-paris-palais-galliera.
Thomas, Dana. “Galliano and McQueen: Clubland Couture | London Evening Standard.” The Standard, 25 Feb. 2015, www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/galliano-and-mcqueen-clubland-couture-10069356.html.
