Mosebacke

Standing on the terrace at Mosebacke, as August Strindberg did, the city tumbles out over the islands in churches, roller coasters, stately buildings from the 1800s, and the copper rooftops of walk-ups from centuries before; in modernist department stores and office buildings from the twentieth century, and in the clusters of cranes over new building projects, dwarfing them all. Invisible radio waves, carrying music, cell phone conversations and nautical data, cross over the steeples and station towers, gold mortar and stone apartment houses, glass curtain-wall and concrete block office buildings. Katarinahissen (the Katarina elevator), iconic and endangered, stands over the massive project removing the old Slussen traffic circles, bridges, squares and bus terminals, hotly contested over the last decades. This birds- eye view of Stockholm is amongst the most picturesque–and famous–in the visually stunning center of the city. You can't see the last bit of the Debaser rock club being removed, and won't see the lounges, record stores and haunts that once looped under the old roundabout. The cityscape from here is punctuated by steeples, belying the fact that the majority of people in Sweden don't attend church services. The mountain you stand on here is hollow; there is a parking garage and car repair shop inside, and they are building a massive new underground bus station as well. Behind you are the entertainment venues Mosebacke Etablissement (The Mosebacke Establishment) and Södra teatern (The South Theater). Who are you in relation to those theaters? Did you hear Cornelis Vreeswijk there in 1979, dance to the electronica at Arts Birthday in 2017, discover Balkan dance music there in the 1990s, hear Dexter Gordon there in the 1960s –or is it just an ornate old theater with some mysterious goings-on inside you've never happened upon? Is the view of the city from here new to you, do you come up here often, or did you read about Stockholm from this “bird’s eye view” in school, in the first pages of Röda Rummet (The Red Room)?

 

It was an evening at the beginning of May. The little garden on Mosebacke had not yet opened to the public, and the flower-beds were unturned. The snowdrops had worked through last year's piles of leaves, and were at the point of ending their short career to make room for the crocuses, which had taken shelter under a barren pear tree; the lilacs waited for a southerly wind before bursting into bloom, but the tightly closed buds of the linden still offered cover for love-making to the chaffinches, busily working on building their lichen-covered nests between trunk and branch. No human foot had trod the gravel paths since last winter's snow had melted, and the free and easy life of beasts and flowers was left undisturbed [...] The sun stood over Liljeholmen, casting sheaves of light to the east; they pierced the columns of smoke from Bergsund, flashed across the Riddarfjärden, climbed to the cross of Riddarholm Church, flung themselves over onto the steep roof of the German church, played with the buntings of the boats on Skeppsbron, lit the windows of Stora Sjötullen, illuminated Lidingö forest, and died away in a rosy cloud far, far away in the distance, where the sea lies. And the wind came from there, and made the same journey back, over Vaxholm, past the fortress, past Sjötullen, along Sicklaön, it went in behind Hästholmen and glanced at the summer resorts; then out again and on it came into Danviken; there it took fright and dashed off along the southern shore, marked the smell of coal, tar and whale-oil, burst against Stadsgården, rushed up Mosebacke, swept into the garden and buffeted against a wall [...]1

 

Det var en afton i början av maj. Den lilla trädgården på Mosebacke hade ännu icke blivit öppnad för allmänheten, och rabatterna voro ej uppgrävda; snödropparna hade arbetat sig upp genom fjolårets lövsamlingar och höllo just på att sluta sin korta verksamhet för att lämna plats åt de ömtåligare saffransblommorna, vilka tagit skydd under ett ofruktsamt päronträd; syrenerna väntade på sydlig vind för att få gå i blom, men lindarna bjödo ännu kärleksfilter i sina obrustna knoppar åt bofinkarna, som börjat bygga sina lavklädda bon mellan stam och gren; ännu hade ingen mänskofot trampat sandgångarna sedan sista vinterns snö gått bort, och därför levdes ett obesvärat liv därinne av både djur och blommor. [...] solen stod över Liljeholmen och sköt hela kvastar av strålar mot öster; de gingo genom rökarna från Bergsund, de ilade fram över Riddarfjärden, klättrade upp till korset på Riddarholmskyrkan, kastade sig över till Tyskans branta tak, lekte med vimplarna på skeppsbrobåtarna, illuminerade i fönstren på stora Sjötullen, eklärerade Lidingöskogarna och tonade bort i ett rosenfärgat moln, långt, långt ut i fjärran, där havet ligger. Och därifrån kom vinden, och hon gjorde samma färd tillbaka genom V axholm, förbi fästningen, förbi Sjötullen, utmed Siklaön, gick in bakom Hästholmen och tittade på sommarnöjena; ut igen, fortsatte och kom in i Danviken, blev skrämd och rusade av utmed södra stranden, kände lukten av kol, tjära och trän, törnade mot Stadsgården, for uppför Mosebacke, in i trädgården och slog emot en vägg [...]2

 

Perhaps it’s that you can’t go back in time, but you can return to the scenes of a love, of a crime, of happiness, and of a fatal decision; the places are what remain, are what you can possess, are what is immortal. They become the tangible landscape of memory, the places that made you, and in some way you too become them. They are what you can possess and in the end what possesses you.–Rebecca Solnit 3

Excerpt: Skogen är bäst på bild (The Forest looks Best in Pictures). Here, a participant looks out over the city from a point a bit below and slightly to the west of Mosebacke.

In 2015, I wandered into a second hand shop in Sundbyberg, and found this lithograph in a sale bin. I immediately dubbed it "Imaginary Slussen", took it home, and hung it on my wall. Here is another outlook from the northern edge of Södermlam, a century before.This ephemeral place walks the city with me, softly golden under the city that unfolds from Mosebacke.