Making Histories: Pluriverse Perspectives on Fashion & Textile Design Studies. Contributions from Year One students (AY 2021/22)
(2023)
author(s): Shanna Soh, Simon Veldkamp, Marijn Brinksma, Renée Buitendijk, Laura Garnier, Kim Gemmink, Carina Georgescu, June Gibbs, Jungyun Jang, Emma Lobina, Riet Pedro, Bas Pol, Hiromu Takeshita, Marie Eve Vedrines, Nora Vervat, Noah Warmer, Zhenyi Zhou
published in: Research Catalogue
This exhibition is co-created by Year One students (2021/22) from the department of Fashion and Textile in The Royal Academy of Art, The Hague (KABK) after attending a series of lectures examining the historical study of Fashion & Textile design from constructivistic perspectives.
This exhibition showcases a spectrum of practice-based research, ranging from imagined narratives from the past; to observations on the global cultural impact of (digital) fashion and music; to attempts in addressing gaps of knowledge and imbalances in the eco-system of fashion & textile in the past, present & future.
In order to preserve the ephemeral nature of students' explorations in art & design education setting and in the spirit of Arturo Escobar's vision on the Pluriverse, students are given the freedom to propose their topic of choice and to deepen their knowledge as independently as possible. Guidance was given only when sought. In line with retaining the integrity of students' works, no interventions were made to student' contributions in this exhibition.
Author / Curator Shanna Soh; Co-creators Riet Pedro, Emma Lobina, Carina Georgescu, Jungyun Jang, Noah Warmer, Renee Buitendlijk, Simon Veldkamp, Hiromu Takeshita, Zhenyi Zhou, Laura Garnier, Marie-Eve Verdrines, Bas Pol, Marijn Brinksma, Kim Gemmink, June Gibbs.
Making Histories: Pluriverse Perspectives on Fashion & Textile Design Studies, Contributions from Year Two students (AY 2021/22)
(2023)
author(s): Shanna Soh, Bessel Bijtelaar, Sophia Bogstedt, Elke Cloin, Julia Groven, Wassim Hodayebi, Peter Wertmann, Asira Wiegers, Ziah Siyu Zhang, Leva Drobenkaitė, Azul Espirito Santo, Lotte Roelandse, Neele Verhees, Emma Verrijt
published in: Research Catalogue
Co-created with Year 2 students from the department of Fashion & Textile of the Royal Academy of Art, The Hague (KABK) as part of the end of year assignment for the subject of Fashion & Textile History, this exposition combines academic and practice-based research as a contribution to existing discourse on Fashion and Textile design studies.
This exhibition showcases a spectrum of research from constructivistic perspectives. Contributions range from those which highlighted the politics of identity in the design canon of fashion and textiles; to attempts to resurrect lost crafts; to addressing the importance of designers being able to move beyond the role of being a maker operating on figuratively isolated islands, towards that which operates more as a hub of human connections in socially-engaged and socially-responsible ways.
In order to preserve the ephemeral nature of students' explorations in art & design education setting and in the spirit of Arturo Escobar's vision on the Pluriverse, students are given the freedom to propose their topic of choice and to deepen their knowledge as independently as possible. Guidance was given only when sought. In line with retaining the integrity of students' works, no interventions were made to student' contributions in this exhibition.
Author / Curator Shanna Soh ; Co-creators Ieva Drobenkaitė, Azul Espirito Santo, Lotte Roelandse, Neele Verhees, Emma Verrijt, Bessel Bijtelaar, Sophia Bogstedt, Elke Cloin, Julia Groven, Wassim el Hodayebi, Patryk Ochmanski, Timour Bonin, Peter Wertmann, Asira Zai, Ziah Siyu Zhang
BODY FRAGMENTED - temporal expressions
(2020)
author(s): Linnea Bågander
published in: VIS - Nordic Journal for Artistic Research
In response to digital technology, new methods, thinking and aesthetics have emerged that challenge the way we design. In particular, the extraction of movement introduced by motion-capture technology propose a design process wherein the motion rather than the form is used as a material in a design process. In such a process the motion is extracted form a defined set of points that creates a digital representation. In this exposition, the strategies utilized when capturing a motion is translated into the process of garment making with the purpose to challenge bodily aesthetics through dress.
Practically, this exposition builds on two independent studies with the shared aim to define parameters for transformations of the moving body’s expression applied to a garment making process. Yet, the transformation is approached from two perspectives; the first study is non-material and borrows theory and references from the field of dance and motion capturing technology. It maps the body as a point-based system based on the body as a moving form and pin-points body functions that affect these points. This part serves as a foundation for the second study that adds material aspects, in particular, it maps material parameters that relate to how the material is arranged in relation to these points.
In conclusion, strategies of extraction of movement as attachments and the scale of fragmentation of materials are considered the main contribution to the garment making process. As it proposes a new usage of movement, the work has implications for fashion design, costume design but also other body movement-based mediums as it is about the expression of body movement and not just the body as a form.
The body within the clothes
(2019)
author(s): Julia Valle-Noronha
published in: RUUKKU - Studies in Artistic Research
Observing dress practices as a field of research is a recent phenomena in exponential growth in which the voice of the designer is often left aside. Aware of this gap, this study dives into the experience of dressing and wearing in search for understanding the ways in which the body materiality is involved in the designer’s creative processes. It explores this inquiry through two path-dependent projects investigated as case studies, namely Dress(v.) and Wear\Wear. The projects make use of auto-ethnographic notations about my personal routine of dressing and wearing to inform the creation of flat patterns for clothes via creative pattern cutting method. Adopting of practice-led research stream via a phenomenological approach to data, the interpretation leads to a further understanding on how the designer’s subjective body is manifest in the design processes and outcomes. The work contributes to the design community by presenting ways in which research methods can inspire design methods, investigated from a practitioner viewpoint. It concludes with suggestions for future collaborations between academic research and design practice in the context of fashion design.
Note to the reader: This exposition is a reworked version of the paper "The Body within the Clothes: A case study on clothing design practice from a practitioner viewpoint" presented at the Art of Research 2017 Conference".
Textile Awareness
(last edited: 2024)
author(s): HANNA felting
This exposition is in progress and its share status is: visible to all.
To create positive Textile Awareness I will be researching the relationship and interaction of consumers with clothing and textiles.
With the intention to encourage people to recycle clothing and shop less.
Inspire people to think critically about their purchases and create awareness about the consequences of clothing choices for the environment.
I want to make a joint impact so that clothing and textiles are no longer treated as waste products. More than half of old textiles in the Netherlands are not recycled but thrown out with the garbage. And thus into the incinerator.
Global warming is perhaps the greatest challenge of our time. What can the consumer change in his behavior towards clothing and textiles? That is the question that concerns me.
How japanese fashion influenced western fashion
(last edited: 2023)
author(s): Clara Micaelli
This exposition is in progress and its share status is: visible to all.
We have observed how japan’s shape entered western fashion. But we will also see how it changed the mentalities and way of considering the woman body.
Analyse en Reflectie, Cartografie Modeonderwijs
(last edited: 2023)
author(s): Deniz Fehmi Demirezen-Smit
This exposition is in progress and its share status is: visible to all.
Mijn gecreëerde cartografie toont het spanningsveld in het modeonderwijs, waarbij ik een voorbeeld uit mijn eigen kunsteducatieve praktijk heb gebruikt als basis. Het spanningsveld dat ik in kaart breng, richt zich op de tegenstelling tussen de harde en zachte benaderingen van het modeonderwijs.
How to make fashion sustainable?
(last edited: 2022)
author(s): Laura Garnier
This exposition is in progress and its share status is: visible to all.
During the past few years I tried to change my way of consumption wether it is food or fashion. I believe in sustainability working together with fashion and textile. In fact they are the second most polluant industry after petrol. In our society, fast fashion, but also fast/overconsumption became normal and we only see the tip of the iceberg. Once we realize the amount of energy, work, products, etc... it takes to make one piece of fabric or even a t-shirt for example, it is obvious that it has to change. I develop some techniques myself to try and be more sustainable without having to cut out the pleasure of buying clothes and following trends.
Fashioning the Voice
(last edited: 2020)
author(s): Jennifer Anyan, Yvon Bonenfant, Katie Daley-Yates
This exposition is in progress and its share status is: visible to all.
Fashioning the Voice is an interdisciplinary research project that brings together the expertise of Yvon Bonenfant an artist-academic who extends voice across media to explore innovative ways of creating (University College, Cork); Dr. Tychonas Michailidis, who’s work focuses on sensor technology and interactions (Research Fellow at Solent University) and myself.]
To create positive Textile Awareness I will be researching the relationship and interaction of consumers with clothing and textiles. With the intention to encourage people to recycle clothing and shop less. Inspire people to think critically about their purchases and create awareness about the consequences of clothing choices for the environment. I want to make a joint impact so that clothing and textiles are no longer treated as waste products. More than half of old textiles in the Netherlands are not recycled but thrown out with the garbage. And thus into the incinerator. Global warming is perhaps the greatest challenge of our time. What can the consumer change in his behavior towards clothing and textiles? That is the question that concerns me.open exposition comments (0)
Fashioning the Voice is an interdisciplinary research project that brings together the expertise of Yvon Bonenfant an artist-academic who extends voice across media to explore innovative ways of creating (University College, Cork); Dr. Tychonas Michailidis, who’s work focuses on sensor technology and interactions (Research Fellow at Solent University) and myself.]open exposition comments (0)