Traditional Dyeing Methods with arctic native plants for fish leather
(2025)
Katrín María Káradóttir
Along the Arctic and sub-Arctic coasts of Alaska, Siberia, north-eastern China, Hokkaido, Scandinavia and Iceland, people have been dressed or shoed in fish skin for millennia. These items were sometimes decorated with a rich colour palette of natural dyes provided by nature. Minerals and raw materials of plant origin were collected from the riverbanks and processed by Arctic seamstresses who operated as designers, biochemists, and zoologists at once. Our exhibition describes the process and illustrates the historical use of natural dyes by Arctic groups originally involved in this art. During our research, an international team of fashion and leather researchers used local Arctic and sub-Arctic flora from Sweden, Iceland and Japan to dye fish leather. Several plants were gathered and sampled on a small scale to test the process and determine the colours they generated based on historical literature and verbal advice from local experts. The project builds on traditional cultural heritage that has enabled us to develop sustainable dyeing processes. The results are promising and confirm the applicability of these local plants for dyeing fish leather, providing a basis for a range of natural dye colours from the local Arctic flora. The aim is to develop moderate-sized industrial production of fish leather in this colour palette to replace current unsustainable chemical dyeing processes. The fish leather dyeing techniques explored on this exhibition depend on the specific geographical location, the natural resources available, the local tradition and cultural identity. The huge variety of sources of colouring materials used throughout history serves as a testimony to the ingenuity of people, who discovered and developed these dyestuffs. When synthetic dyes were discovered in the mid-19th century, natural dyes became less important, although today they are gaining popularity again thanks to the emerging sustainable movement. The exhibition aims to consider how the dyeing of fish leather might recognise and inspire deeper relational connections between people, and their environment. By working with natural raw materials and natural dyes we can ensure that the materials can be returned to the earth after a lifetime of use with a positive impact on ecosystem health. Conservation policies and management plans are also needed to sustainably preserve these ethnobotanical resources while supporting local livelihoods and maintaining cultural practices. The project represents an innovation in materials design driven by traditional technologies, addressing changes in interactions between humans and with our environment. The results indicate that new materials, processes and techniques are often the fruitful marriage of historical research into traditional methods and fashion, helping the industry move towards a more sustainable future.
XRW (Implicature)
(2025)
Zoe Panagiota (aka Betty) Nigianni
50 A3 drawings black and coloured markers, including:
3 A3 collages on paper with newspaper cutouts and printed photos.
12 A4 drawings on paper with coloured markers, glued on A3 paper + 1 A3 with black ballpoint pen and markers, glued on A3 paper.
13 A3 drawings on paper with black marker, and red, pale blue, gold, pink and orange markers +1 A3 two-sided.
17 A3 drawings on paper with coloured markers.
1 drawing on sketchbook cover with red nail polish.
1 text drawing on sketchbook cover inside.
1 drawing on sketchbook cover back inside with black, orange and gold markers.
22 A4 drawings with ballpoint pen.
62 pocket sketchbook black marker and ballpoint pen drawings.
Some of the above is preparatory work for 4 large prints and 13 paintings. The 12 A4 glued on A3 are preparatory work for a collage on panel.
I made the art between 2023-2024, from the perspective of the observer. Most of the research material came out of crime and fraud reports. I started writing the blog afterwards, since the summer of 2024.
I adopted the visual vocabulary of the graphic novel, which I partly studied and read a lot about, looking at different graphic artists' work, when I was attending classes at the University of Malmo, Sweden, in 2012, to familiarise myself with elements of game design. Much of this work is, amongst other, about children: how they love, amongst other. I wanted to emphasise that element, by intentionally applying stylistic elements from children's drawings, in a naive and loose architectural composition, using heavily the black marker and stick figures. Adopting this visual approach, I also wanted to evoke a comically sharp, but intimate twist, as commentary, in the British tradition of political satire, to the otherwise dark subject matter. Finally, this artistic style refers to the populist character of actors.
The text is written like trip-hop songs: two of the pseudonyms I gave are the artistic names of musicians of colour from the British band "Massive Attack", formed in Bristol. I use heavily popular culture signifiers, names of fictional characters from film, television, music and painting, as reference to actual individuals. Parts of the analysis is inspired by Saul Kripke's interpretation of Wittgenstein's example of mathematical calculation. I used plenty of popular and less popular literary and philosophical references, for the visual art and in the writing.
Saul Aaron Kripke was the inventor of the possible worlds philosophical hypothesis, which was seminal for philosophers working in the area of contemporary analytic metaphysics, including the theory of counterparts and the theory of names. He died in 2022. Lauren Berlant was a cultural theorist and gender studies scholar. She died in 2021. The exposition is underpinned by an underlying Marxist interpretation that, in my view, is relevant not just to economists and political philosophers, but also to people working in different sectors of our modern economies of advanced capitalism, such as banking and cybersecurity.
In the style of art, as painting, I was inspired by Jean-Michel Basquiat's drawings and paintings, which are laden with input from popular media sources, like jazz music and television, recorded in an automatic and naive drawing manner, turned into abstracted paintings.
For Nikos ('Ramadan', 'Mr X'), Filip ('Philip'), and Brandon ('Magna') - August, September, and October 2024. For "Daddy G" ('Isaac'), 'Eric' ("Her Man"), 'Prudence' ("'Rachel''s Beau", or "Her Man's alter-ego"), Julien ('Moussa') and 'Gaetan'- December 2024, January 2025, May and June 2025. Three men of colour and five white men. Who were also targeted, directly and indirectly. Who are not politicians, but are doing something political, so they must take care of what they do.
See also exposition "The Loot", under 'Art and Activism Exposed as Research Blog'.
Traces and Paths Towards Singularly-Plural Companionships
(2025)
Fulya Uçanok
This exposition emerged from my participation in the second interval of the Simultaneous Arrivals (Simularr) Artistic Research Project—a research project inviting international artist-researchers to explore relational, situated, and process-based inquiries in dialogue with core researchers. Core researchers: Nayari Castillo, Hanns Holger Rutz, Franziska Hederer, and Daniele Pozzi. For the second interval, the visual artist and researcher Elena Radaelli and I were invited as visiting artist-researchers. (More information on Simultaneous Arrivals: https://simularr.net/about/)
The exposition presents my process during the residency, i.e. my Traces and Paths Towards a Singularly-Plural Companionships.
The eight-week residency (3 March-30 April 2024) took place across three sites: Graz (Austria); Lecce, San Cesario (Italy); and Klagenfurt (Austria). The exposition traces this journey through various mediums, including texts, graphics, video and audio material experiments, field encounters, and theoretical companions. My processes, are informed and shaped by my companion collaborators—human (research-creation companions), more-than-human, textual, and material—who co-inform and co-create the unfolding of the research.